1. It is very expensive – even when you try to save money: I definitely recommend selecting a hotel with a good breakfast and making lunch – visit a local grocery store to pick up things and take a piece of fruit from breakfast to go so you have a mid-morning snack.

2. When in Rome do as the Romans do: for real! Where they eat and buy their groceries is cheaper than where the tourists eat. The subway is very affordable at €1 a trip or you can purchase day passes but you can also walk a lot of places if you time things out well and that will allow you to see a lot of the city and also find those little places that the Romans go too.

This was one of our favorite places – delicious take-away at affordable prices!

3. Send your postcards from Vatican City: the stamps are more affordable and the mail is very fast! (There is one post office in St. Peter’s Square but there is also one inside the Vatican museum)

4. Look both ways before crossing the street and avoid the scooters: traffic is insane and you will have to adapt quickly to crossing and accepting that there will be cars immediately after you and probably in front of you while you cross. We kept a steady pace and never tried to speed up or slow down – it’s also great to cross in packs so if it’s you alone wait for a few people to join you before crossing. Scooters follow their own road rules, which we never really figured out, they go fast and really pay no heed to pedestrians – we avoided them.

5. Keep the receipt: we heard that police can ask you to produce your receipt from a restaurant due to places trying to take orders under the table – always ask for a receipt and keep it. We had a place that really did not want to give us our receipt but in the end we got it. We did not have a problem with police asking us for our receipts but better safe, than sorry! It’s a hefty fine if you can’t produce it.

6. Dress to impress: we tried to blend in but they know you are a tourist – especially since you are probably speaking English. But we made an effort to wear dark colors and carry bags that go across the shoulder that you can tuck under an arm or hold/cover with your hand (to prevent pick pocketing). But don’t go out and buy a pair of pumps because you’ve heard that Italian women don’t wear sneakers – it’s true, I didn’t see a lot of Italians in white sneakers but I did see a lot of puma, lacoste and other flat dark colored street shoes. I didn’t give up comfort to try and blend in a little more. But I think if you look more European you are less likely to be a target or unwanted attention. So don’t wear a baseball cap, white sneakers and shorts if you really want to try and blend – do wear sunglasses (large), a scarf, skirts and nice blouses or tops. A lot of churches require modesty so skirts to the knee and covered shoulders is a must – many provide modesty shawls or fabric to cover up if you don’t meet the standards.

7. Beware of gypsies and pick pockets: you are going to see them but with your wits about you (and the proper attire) you shouldn’t be a target for them. They all will ask you for money and you will see them on the streets. We just kept our purses in hand and looked out for each other and fortunately had no issue. Do not leave your bags alone, or leave your purse pushed over your shoulder where you can’t see it and backpacks are probably not the best idea.

8. No photo means no photo: try if you must but it’s generally not worth it – pay the €0.40 and buy the postcard…

Must Eat

• L’Enotec Antica (via della croce 76 – near the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo) tel 06 6790896 [Best salad – buffalo mozzarella and great pizza]
- someone will ask you if you want to buy a rose – just say no!
- the food was excellent and the service was very good. We ate here twice for dinner.

• Il Gelato di San Crispino (via della Panetteria 42 – near Trevi fountain) [Try the hazel nut, honey or lemon – they are amazing! But really they are all really good. Closed on Tuesday but open noon until late ever other day (at least midnight).]

• Ristaurante Piacere Molise (via Candia 60 – near the Vatican)
- try the crème brulée (made at your table and delicious!)
- lots of fresh fish and great pesto!
- Eat inside as the street is noisy

• Pizzeria le Pratolina Sas (via degli scipioni 248 – tel 06 36004409)
- amazing pizza and no tourists – a winning combination! Yum!
- NO ONE will come in and ask you if you want to buy a rose – this was our favourite place to eat! Arrive early (before 7pm) or make a reservation – this place fills up fast and is full all night. Great atmosphere and wonderful staff. We ate here twice for dinner.

• La Compagnia del Pane (via Fabio Massimo 87/A-89 (Prati) on the corner of via degli scipioni)
- this is the best place to get take-away – the food is fresh and delicious
- all the food is priced by weight and feel free to let them know if you want more or less (this was probably the best deal – we went twice but would have gone more frequently if we had known about it earlier about €24 for 3 people to have dinner and fruit salad to share)
- Great hot food and cold (salads, including fruit) and lovely pastries! We loved the tomatoes stuffed with rice and the mini pizzas but everything was great!
- No tourists and not a lot of English but people were very helpful!

Tags: Il Gelato di San Crispino, L'Enotec Antica, La Compagnia del Pane, Pantheon, Pizzeria le Pratolina Sas, Ristaurante Piacere Molise, Rome, Rome skyline, Spanish Steps, tips, Trevi fountain

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